Eastern Life And Scenery

CONTENTS TO VOL. I.

I.—LIFE IN THE SERAI.

My First Portrait. — Difficult Installation. — " Shimdy ! Shimdy ! "—The Handsome Circassian.—An Unfortu­nate Costume.—"Whereis the Soul?"—The Lay Figure. —The Wedding Dresses of Two Sultanas.—The Portrait of an Imperial Princess.—A Serai on the Bosphorus.—
Waiting.—The Sultana.—In the Harem.—Diamonds and Difficulties.—Hala'iks and Hanums.—Excellent Order of the Household.—Oustas, Calf as, and Children.—Lining the Quilts.—Draping the Antary.—Prosperous Slaves.— Backshish and Presents.—Entangled Music.—"Caveh Alti."—The multiplied Work of the Imperial Kitchen.— The Teachers of the Harem.—A CagedBird.—'' Destour!'' —The Dinner Trays.—The Military Band.—Circassian and Georgian Beauties.—Souzy-Dil and her Violoncello. —Deilferat and her Double-Bass.—The Class of Tumblers. —An Evening Entertainment.—The Pantomime.—The Ball and the Red Bandanas.—Portrait of a Seraili.— Beautiful Jewellery                   1

II.—IN STAMBOUL.

The Bridge.—Place of Executions.—The Old Seraglio.—Alai Kiosk.—The Guilds of Constantinople.—Their Patron Saints.—An Old Stone.—Bab-Houmayoun.—Fountain of Ahmed III.—His Inscription.—St. Sophia.—Construction and Destruction.—The Samaritan's Well.—The Hindoo's Tree.—The Atmeidan            42

III.—DIVAN YOLOU AND THE BAZAARS.

A fine Street View.—The Burnt Column.—The House of Busbek. — The Noor Osmanieh. — Kebabs. — Bazaar Touters. — Hadji Osman.—Fading Splendours.—Seal Engravers.—Spoonmakers.—Mosque of Sultan Baya-zid II.—Ramazan Bazaar.—The Petted Pigeons.—Mer­chants from the far East.—Bric-â-brac                     58

IV.—PERA.

The Grande Rue.—Street Commerce.—A Quiet Corner.—Bul­garian Milkman.—Maltese Goats.—Snails and Cuttlefish. —'' Milk-drinking Lambs." —'' Koush Conmaz ! " — Caramanian Mutton.—The "Djighirdji " and Marco.— A Dog's District.—The Bear and his Leader.—The Schekerdji.—Mohalibe.—Oil, Lemon, Soot, and Charcoal.— A humble Devotee.—" Sakas."—The Buffalo Cart.—A Greek Funeral.—A Quiet Time.—The Fire Gun.—Great FireofPera                     72

V.—EVERYDAY LIFE IN A HAREM.

The Family of the Pasha.—A Tiny Woman.—A Sucking General.—Tchaousch Hanum.—The Eldest Daughter.— Turkish Beds.—Nomadic Furniture.—Concerning House­hold Matters.—Risk of Fire.—The Duties and Condition of "Hala'iks."—Female Pedlars.—Life on a Farm in Asia Minor              99

VI.—EVERYDAY LIFE IN A HAREM.

Djenâniah Calf a.—DjemilĞ.—" A Sad Coquette."—Entangled Interchange of Sentiments.—An Adventure.—Reflections. —Portrait of the Hanum.—A Venerable Fiance.—Collection of Antiquities.—A Brick Tablet.—Cylinders.—Seals.  Gems and Coins.—Legend of Nimrod.—Moses.—Dream of a Sultan.—Isolation         113

VII.—A STRAY THREAD.—FROM YALI-KIOSK TO  YEDI-KOULE.

A Feeble Line of Rail.—A Simple Booking-Office.—Patient Passengers.—The Panorama unwinds.—Byzantine Remains.—Gardens of the Old Seraglio.—A Calm Decay.— Remains of the Great Palace of Constantine, of Justinian,  of Heraelius.—BeautifulFragments.—Ruins of a Palace of Theodosius the Younger.—Koum-Kapou.—Vlanga-Bos- tan.—The " Pomegranate Gate."—Monastery of St. John Studius.—Yedi-Koule (the Seven Towers).—Camels.— The Fortress and State Prisons.—The Industrial School. —The Golden Gate                           129

VIII.—THE LAND-WALLS OF CONSTANTINOPLE.

NO.   I.—THE  TOWEE OF ISAAC ANGELUS AND   THE PEISONS OF  ANEMA.

The " Sebil-Khane " and the Steam Mill.—The Blachernce. -r-Five Miles of Towers and Battlements.—The Tower of Isaac Angelus.—State Prisons of Anemâ.—A walled-up   Gate              140

IX.—THE LAND-WALLS OF CONSTANTINOPLE.

II.—TEKFUE-SEEAI.

Eghri-capou.—The   Stamboul   Taksim.—Origin   of   "Sou-Terazi" (the Water Towers).—Interesting Remains.—Tekfur-Serai.—The Hall of the Emperors.—History of a   Diamond, the " Tchoban Tashy."                147

X—THE LAND-WALLS OF CONSTANTINOPLE.

III.—FEOM TEKFUE-SEEAI TO THE  SEA OF MAEMOBA.

Kerkoporta.—Useless Destruction.—View from the Top of the Wall.—Kachrie Djami.—The Land-Walls of Con­stantine.— The Adrianople Gate.—The Lycas. — The "Riven Tower."—An Ancient Burial-place of the Gothic Guard.—A Monster Cannon: its requirements, its ven­
geance, and its fate.—Mevlaneh Capoussy.—Silivria Capoussy.—The Burial-place of Aliof Janiria.—The Golden Gate.—A Railway Arch !—The last Tower of the Land-Walls                156

XL—BALOUKLI AND THE FESTIVAL OF THE FISHES.

Up the Golden Horn.;—The Okmei'dan.—Aî wan-Serai.—The Greek Burial-ground.—An Animated Scene.—Dancing Hamals.— Laborious Enjoyment.—Greek Dancing. — Solemn Gaieties.—Tchinganas.—AFuneral.—The Church of Baloukli.—The Miraculous Fishes.—The Fragments of a Festival               168

XII.—VILLAGE LIFE IN TURKEY.

Round the Meidan.—The Meidan.—The Grey Wooden House. —The Imam's House and the Battle of the Broomsticks. — Ibrahim.—The Rose-Coloured House.—The Ruined House.—The Yellow Konak.—Two Cottages          184

XIII.—THE TURKISH GIRLS' SCHOOL.

The Normal School of Yere Batan.—Opening Ceremonies.— A small "Medjliss."—The Drawing Class Room.—A First Lesson.—Art Students, their Ways and Manners. —Discord.—A " Tender Infant."—Practice better than Precept. — '' Yavash.'' — Cracked Konaks.—Djenab.—  DeH Fatima.—Working for the "imtihan."—Emine.— Fetiye and Munire.—A Circassian Mother.—Djemile and Her Work.—Camma, the Abyssinian.—The Examina­ tions.—A Visit to the Home of Djenab.—Black Coffee and Gossip. — The Marriage-maker. — Anarchy. — The Poor Old Mudir                   221

XIV.—THE IFTAR.

Turkish. Society.—Ramazan.—The If tar.—Djemile and Ze- he'ira.—How to sit round a Dining-table.—Bouyouroun." —A Varied Repast.—" Aschourah."—The Young Hanums.—Sabiha and the Little Beys.—Neighbourly Visits. —Hospitality                     249

XV.—THE GREAT BURIAL-GROUND OF SCUTARI.

The Rustic " Cafe."—Dreamy Influences.—The " Mezarlik." Three Little Donkeys and their Driver.—Ali Baba's Wife. —The Oil Jars.—Copper Mangals and Metal Lamps.— Allah-edeen.— Alnaschar's Eggs.— A Dream rudely broken.—A Turbe, Tombs, and Shrines.—Reverence.— Beautiful Epitaphs.—The Tomb of a Horse.—Its Extra­ ordinary Efficacy.—The Use of a Long "Tessbih."— Gloomy Depths.—Lingering Rays               271

XVI.—THE HOWLING DERVISHES.

The Teke.—A Venerable Scheik and his Little Son.—Dis­criminate Salutations.—Devotees.—Growing Excitement. —A Pause.—Infant "Faithful."—Frantic Devotion.—A HolySanton              282

XVII.—A STEP EASTWARDS.

NO. I.

On the Road to Nicomedia.—In search of the Tomb of Han­nibal.—Church of St. Euphemia.—Elastic Railway Ar­rangements.—The Bay of Kalamitza.—Ayasma of St. John Chrysostom.—Fanaraki.—A Summer Palace of Justinian.—" Kaish Dagh."—Maltepe.—Tomato Paste. —Cartal.—Pendik.—The Gulf of Ismid.—Station of Guebseh                  290

NO. II.—GUEBSEH.

The Ruins of Eski-Hissar.—The Baths of Yalova.—Crusa­ders.—The Baths of Pythia.—The Turkish Peasant.—Guebseh.—Beautiful Mosque.—The "Mezarlık."—A Hanum of the Good Old Time.—A Native Repast.—The Camel Stables                  299

XVIII.—EST THE SERAI.

NO. II.

Once more in the Serai.—A Pretty Scene.—In the Visitors' Room.—Neat Needlework.—Souvenirs of former Gaieties. The Invasion of Crinoline.—Art under Difficulties.—The Pocket Sketch-book.—The old Negress and the Sud'na. —Peaceful Pictures.—The Call to Prayer.—The Sejjade. The Namaz.—The Prescribed Hours.—The Tessbih.— A Dying Halaik.—Marriage of the Ibrikdar Ousta.— Prosperous Servitude and Undesirable Freedom.—Ghevheri                          307

XIX.—THE MIDDLE BRIDGE.

An Unfashionable Lounge.—Shores of the Golden Horn.— Churches and Church Mosques.—Black Sea Boats.— Caiques and Mahones. — A Pasha's "Five-pair." — Sandals.—A Man-of-War's Boat.—The Bazaar Caique                   322

XX.—FACTS, FANCIES, AND FOLK-LORE.

Festival of the Firstborn.—Turkish Caudle.—Tchinganas.—A Splendid Bed and Cradle.—Naming the Infant.—Pre­cautions against the " Evil Eye."—The use of Incense.— Dog-bread.—A Faulty Pattern.—Polite Spitting.—The Value of Old Shoes and of Blue Beads.—Breadcrumbs and Scraps of Paper.—Infused "Writing.—The Seven Holy Nights.—The Night of Terror.—The Night of Power.—Aschourah and Nevrouzie.—Invention of Con­fectionery.—Garlic and Onions.—A Kurd's Appreciation. —Shem and his Bees.—BalMss, Queen of Sheba, and her Difficulties. — Solomon, a Basket-Maker. — Concerning Mangals.—The Origin of the Deluge.—The Old Woman of Kufa.—Carrier Pigeons, and the Fate of Yezid and Dj ebada.—Dyvits invented by Enoch                      330